A Day in Dunedin

Thursday, January 4

Dunedin. Pronounciation: dun-E-din. First stop is the train station. Gorgeous architecture and still used today, but mostly for tourism. It is impossible to count all the images of trains throughout the station, from the tiles on the ground to the stained-glass windows.



Second stop is the historic Presbyterian church. Dunedin was settled mostly by Scottish who built this beautiful church, which is now open to the public. Entering the wooden double doors, a spirit of reverence immediately washes over us. The inside has a ethereal glow enhanced by the light streaming in through the stained-glass windows. In the balcony, the organ chimes out old favourite hymns reverberating against the high ceiling and enhancing the worship moment.

Back in town, we stop at two sports stores and Amy buys a surfboard. Now she won't have to borrow from Jon, who has been gracious. Lunch is at a cafe in the center of town where we can watch locals and tourists cross paths.

According to the Guiness Book of World Records, Baldwin St is the worlds steepest street. And there is a sign to prove it. I have to admit, it's pretty steep. First, we walked up the 270 steps, then (yes, I was entrusted with the keys) we drove. The houses and people at the bottom quickly faded as we rose above.

Like other towns we've noticed, shops in Dunedin close at 5pm. With the city shutting down, we are forced to leave. On the way home, we stop at Nugget Point. A lighthouse crests the point overlooking rugged boulders jutting out of the sea (nuggets). The setting sun casts a warm glow over the bay and notice a Yellow-Eyed Penguin look-out trench nearby. Shortly after we arrive, we are lucky to see a pair of penguins coming out of the sea to nest for the night. Then another pair come out. They are amazing to watch as they gracefully surf the waves then stand up and waddle across the sand, hopping across rocks to their grass shelters in the hillside. We are surprised that the Elephant Seals and sealions don't bother them. We learn that this is the only place in NZ (other than the sea) where all three coexist.

Surf's Up

Wednesday, January 3

What better way to follow a hike to a glacier than by going surfing? Heading to the beach, we hit the waves on boards borrowed from Amy and Kimball's friend Jon that lives near the ocean and is board sitting for some friends. Shhh. We are the first on the waves for the afternoon and they are perfect. A clean break that we can ride all the way to shore. With rash guard, wetsuit, booties, and hood the freezing water isn't all that freezing. Thank goodness. Over the next 3 hours or so we are happy to share the waves with the four other surfers who show up. If we found waves like these (or even worse) in California there would be heaps of people lined up.

Mum and Dad watch for a wee bit before fetching us food. A quick break to rest and rejuvenate and we're back in the water. One wave catches me off guard and runs my board into my eyebrow causing an inch gash. Amy confirms that it's not too bad, but I still stay closer to shore than the others in case there are sharks and the blood in my eye bothers me. But all is well worth the price of a good wave. Besides, the cold and salt water help it heal faster.

Our arms are exhausted from paddling and we have to stop eventually. The sun feels warm as we dry off. And summarily, a rousing challenge of paddle ball is accepted.

Of Glaciers and Such

Tuesday, Jan 2

Circling up the scenic road leaving the valley of Queenstown behind us, we make our way to Wanaka. We are reluctant to leave our posh accommodations, but look forward to the next activity. Apparently local Kiwis complain about how crowded Queenstown is in the summer and opt to vacation at the lake in Wanaka. Turning down main street, we are not convinced that it is any less crowded than Queenstown. But then again there is a sign announcing the rodeo is today. Grabbing sandwiches from Subway, we drive back out of the town and to the scenic part. We pass the lake which is swarming with campers hoping to catch the sun and a boat ride. As the bustle of summer fades slowly behind us, we come to open fields surrounded by swaths of mountains. At one point we have to stop the car to let meandering cows cross. The road turns to gravel and "ford" signs appear warning us of river crossings. We come to a field flanked by a river. A swinging bridge with 2 person maximum leads to fields of undulating grasses. A perfect place to eat our sandwiches.

Energized, we drive the final distance to the trailhead of Mt. Aspiring. The four hour roudtrip hike begins with great views of glaciers rising above the trail. Weaving in and out of the forest, following along the rushing river, up, up we rise to the snow-capped mountain. We share the path with the famous NZ Kea birds and we are careful not to let them get too close because we know they will destroy (or steal) any small item they can capture.

At the summit, the glacier air hits us. We rest and take in the glorious view. White snow carpeting the ground, river rushing below us, and waterfalls of melting glaciers rushing down the opposite mountain. As we watch, a huge chunk of snow breaks off and we watch it crash over the rocks and into the river.

New Years 2007

The first day of 2007 we awaken lazily and reluctantly pack up to leave our condo. We quickly forget our despair as we board the bus to the river to ride the Shotover Jet. Mom is quiet as we near the river. The 2 ton jet powers through the canyon, narrowly dodging rugged cliffs, at times shooting over 4 inches of water, and turning complete circles on a dime. Definitely the splash zone. We are thrilled and the half hour ride passes quickly, literally.

Rumors of a river trail lure us to search it out. We find the trailhead off the main road and duck down the gravel path that soon turns to dirt at is winds around the mountain edge paralleling the river. Below, we can see the Shotover Jet thrilling other happy passengers and Kimball and Dad shoot enough footage to create a home-made video good enough to advertise for Shotover Jet.

Heading back to the nature center, we are anxious to catch the afternoon nature and culture shows. The nature show includes information of native NZ animals. We learn how the Kiwi sucks food through his long nose. The Tuatara (lizard) can possibly live 200 or 300 years, but nobody has tracked the life of one that long. They are born with a 3rd eye on their forehead which has no purpose and quickly disappears under a flap of scales. The oldest Tuatara (Henry actually lives in Invercargill) is 108.

The culture show is next where we watch the Mauri (natives who first moved to NZ from Hawaii) dance and chant called Hauka that was performed before war to threaten the enemy. It is now performed before rugby games.

Another full day ends with a walk around downtown. Tourist shops boast Paua shell jewelry, postcards, and Manuka honey. Bees don't naturally like the Manuka flower and have to be trained to pollenate. Stopping at the grocery store, we get potatoes to bake back at the condo. We are happy to return to our luxurious abode and watch the day fade over the bay.

Go Blackcaps!

Sunday, New Year's Eve

The forecast calls for cloudy partly rainy day. Not unlike the past few. So we throw on layers of clothing as we head to Queenstown a couple hours drive away. The Blackcaps are playing Sri Lanka and the fans are streaming into the stadium when we arrive. There are no designated seats so we claim a spot on the grass to spend the next few hours. I'm not sure how much I actually learn about cricket as I watch, but it's definitely more than I knew before. NZ wins the coin toss and decides to bowl (pitch) for the first half. Sri Lanka sends out their first two players to face the NZ team and fans. We are close to the field and have a good view of the players. It's funny when the fans interact with a player that is assigned to the field near us.

Almost more entertaining (impossible) than the game is the half-time show. Fans compete against each other to catch tennis balls shot straight up into the air. Some die-hard fans show their enthusiasm by dressing in super hero costumes with the names of NZ team members. Another group of enthusiasts cross-dress and I'm not sure how that's connected with cricket. Small games of cricket break out among the crowds as people wait for the game to continue. The sun has come out in full force and volunteers walk up and down offering free sunscreen. We still got burnt, even Kimball. The field is nestled beneath mountains and beside a small airport. Airplanes rise elegantly in the sky above the game.

During half-time a helicopter hovers over the field so news reporters can capture the energy of the fans for the local news. Amy and Kimball run back to the car to change clothing because the heat is becoming amazingly strong. Sri Lanka takes the outfield in the second half and the game goes on. And on. And on. About 4 or 5 hours into the game we realize it's not almost over and we're ready to leave.

Consulting our guide book, we conclude that the most desireable activity is to see the Kiwi birds. Parking downtown Queenstown (everything is walking distance), we collect our headphones for the self-guided walking tour of the Kiwi nature habitat. The Kiwis are kept indoors in a dark room. Their day/night schedule is purposefully set opposite ours because they hide during the day and we wouldn't be able to see them. When our eyes adjust to the dim lighting, we see the two flightless birds walking around their home and poking their long noses into the ground. They are the only bird to have their nostrils at the end of their nose, which they use to search for bugs and other food under the ground. They are surprisingly bigger than we expected. Walking through the rest of the park, we are able to see Wood Ducks, parrots, Tuatara (lizards that look like miniature dinasours), and other fun animals. Most of the animals that populate NZ are birds because (if I haven't already mentioned) the only native mammals are two types of bats. All other mammals were brought in by humans, which have begun destroying various types of birds that once found peace in the seclusion on the island from predators. We also learn about the native Maori and almost lose Amy into one of their huts, which are low to the ground so they can see their enemies coming and also to keep each other warm.

The snacks we ate during the cricket game have worn off and we must find food. A short walk brings us directly to an Indian restaurant. When we request a table (most people make reservations), the waiter asks if we will be done eating in 2 hours because they are booked for the evening. We assure him we'll be done sooner than that and watch as his face relaxes. I guess most people take their time eating. It tends to be a social evening activity and not just for the purpose of consuming food. Everywhere we look, people are sitting at cafes, restaurants and bars chatting and unconcerned about their next activity. Our food arrives and is delicious. Yummy curry and mango lassi.

Bellies satisfied we wander down the street to the waterfront. A street performer is entertaining a crowd. Card tricks and jokes and harmless insults keep the lazy holiday crowd laughing. We take a short walk along the lakeside. The evening wind picks up and we decide to find our night's accommodation. During the cricket half-time, Amy and Kimball apparently drove around town to find a place to stay. Previously, more than one person told us tales of the impossiblities of finding a place to stay in Queenstown before February. So when Amy and Kimball tell us they found a small room that was decent our emotions are mixed. What is the definition of "decent", but at least they found something. However, our emotions aren't as mixed when they lead us to a 3-bedroom condo with huge windows overlooking the bay. With a flip of a switch, the fireplace roars to life and we marvel at the view below. How blessed we are. I quickly claim a lake-view bedroom and discover a massive bathtub in the bathroom. Soaking in the tub I am convinced this is the life. Until I step out of the tub and onto the heated floor. Now, this is the life. Hot chocolates in hand, a game of Hearts begins the night's festivities.

Waiting for midnight, Kimball introduces us to a new game. Dealing out a complete deck of cards, the first card played (any card) begins the story and rotating clockwise the next person has to match suite or number and continue the story connecting the story to the card in any way possible. I have not laughed so hard in a very long time. Our story about 5 people who loved each other so much that it annoyed others evolved to where the Kiwi birds in the enchanted forest were endangered and the princess had 10 suitors who each played a different musical instrument. There were wishes and diamonds and romance and tragedy. And of course comedy. Look for it among best sellers in 2007. Just as the game ended we saw flashes of light outside. Without fighting crowds or even getting cold, we watched as a several magical displays of fireworks burst over the water. Happy New Year!

Happy Sabbath

Saturday, December 30

Invercargill not being too large, the church is fairly close to Amy & Kimball's house. We are blessed to be in attendance on a very special day. The church is celebrating its 85th anniversary. Quite an accomplishment. Several church members share their memories of earlier years accompanied by pictures. Then the pastor gives a short talk on how the purpose of the church has not changed over all these years: For the Glory of God. Then he speaks of how the church will pursue expansion and focus on the youth. The service closes with 3 special baptisms. What a blessing.

A quick trip home to pick up rice and curry, then we're back for potluck. Everyone is so friendly. We meet the pastor and his wife. Mom meets the local principal and we get tips from the locals on sights to see. One of the church members is a chef and made a huge celebratory cake for dessert. We don't think we'll ever be hungry again.

Back home we have a discovering discussion on the meaning of Sabbath. Using the Bible as our guide, we verbally hike from verse to verse. Several thoughts are emphasized. One being that the Sabbath is meant to be a blessing, a day of rest, a day to enjoy God and each other. The Sabbath was made for man. It shouldn't be a burden. As we soak in the wonder that our creator would think of every detail, we are awed by the thought that He would know we would need night to rest every 24 hours and one whole day to spend with Him every 7 days to prepare and refocus us to face the challenges the devil throws our way. What a wonderful God!

Give me some O2 and let me dive

Friday, December 29

Happy 4 month anniversary to Amy and Kimball!

After a short night's sleep 5:55am comes all too early. Amy and I are picked up from our cottage in Te Anau by Dave and Harvey, our dive guides for the day. Doing this every day, they are awake and ready for conversation. We convincingly entertain their enthusiasm most of the drive for our second day in Milford Sound (inaccurately named because it's actually a fiord, not sound). The rain falls sporadically and we see a magnificent double rainbow. Entering the national park, the waterfalls astound us equally as the first time we saw them. Dave and Harvey are full of educational information, which is self-proclaimed mostly accurate and we know it'll be a good day.

At the lodge in Milford Sound, we meet the other two divers and wife of one of them who will join us in the boat. Donning our wetsuits, we compile our tanks and bc's. The sandflies are beginning to bite and we are anxious to get on the boat. We pass kayakers and head to our first dive spot. Not far away we sputter to a stop. Hood, fins, tank, gloves, air on. Check. Tank hanging over the side of the boat, fins crossed (so as not to smack others on the boat), one hand on face mask, other hand on flashlight (so as not to smack self), and lean backwards to commence dive. We did two half hour dives. After entering the water we quickly check our weights and submerge ourselves into the freezing water. Seriously freezing. We quickly forgot the cold as we entered the haze below. Milford Sound offers a unique diving experience. Due to the immense amount of rainfall, there is a layer of fresh water (usually four meters) on top of the salt water. How this affects divers is where the fresh and salt water meet creates a haze because they don't mix. Below the haze, the visibility improves.


Some of the amazing underwater sights include Black Coral. Multiple choice question: what color is Black Coral? A. Black, B. White, or C. Red. You are correct--the answer is B. White. Named for the black spine that is visible when the coral dies. While alive, the coral is brilliant white. It grows 1 meter every hundred years. There was one piece where the top was huge and we couldn't even see the bottom. Swimming along the shelf, we saw amazing black and yellow snake starfish wrapped around coral, white nudibrach camoflauged against black (white) coral, huge crayfish ("lobster" in U.S.), and other very cool alive stuff. Back up to the boat, which was still waiting for us. Unloading our gear, we each receive a thermos of warm soup, fuzzy dry gloves and hat, and warm water poured down our wetsuit. Glorious. The shivering still takes a while to subside. While we complete the required rest between dives, we drive around the lake, getting up close and personal with some of the waterfalls. Our second dive is even more amazing, with the visibility being fabulous. We were able to see things that usually only grow at insane depths, but the fresh water layer made the water darker which created the illusion of greater depths. The sun came out and we could barely see the rays blurring through the fresh water.


Out of the water, the sun feels fabulous. The biscuits (cookies) are passed as we drive out to sea. Not all the way out. There are more sealions on Seal Rock than yesterday. They must like the sun as much as we do. The waterfalls are possibly larger today (or is the contrast greater from our small boat) and we see the snowy mountain peaks, especially Mitre Peak. In the distance Dusky Dolphins jump. Cutting the engine, we pause and wait. They swim straight towards us, circling the boat. They play and race around us within reach. As entertaining as they are, we can't stay all day and must be on our way. Behind us, a whole row of dolphins jump simultaneously and flap their flippers while squeaking "Come back soon". OK, I might have made up the last bit.

Driving back to the dock, we pass a cliff. Of all cliffs, this is special. The story goes Pepsi wanted to shoot a commercial of a lady base jumping from the cliff. She jumped far out to avoid the dangerous rocks jutting out below and successfully landed in the frigid water. She claimed that was the scariest thing she had ever done. Coming out of the water, she was politely asked to jump again because the film crew forgot to turn on the cameras.

Lunch time at the cafe. We order our one main entree and two sides. At the table, we review what we saw while diving and the diligent among us make entries in their dive logs. All duties complete we bid farewell to our dive partners and Dave and Harvey drive us back to Te Anau. Along the way, we stop at wonderful and amazing sites. The guys are well-versed in local history and if they don't know something they make it up. We drink fresh spring water, smell stink plant (it stinks), and are shown a plant where we can eat the delicate leaf at the very top. Stories are told for us to figure out which are true later. A good time was had by all.

Meanwhile, Mom and Dad enjoy a morning sleeping in before they head to town. Another glorious meal and fascinating trip to the grocery store keep them entertained. They are mesmerized by a fly-through experience of Fiordland thanks to the local theatre. Learning more of the local history (probably more accurate than the version we received), we meet them back at the nature centre.

And finally, our drive back home to Invercargill. Fields of sheep. La la la. We stop only to see a seaside campground. The outhouse reads "Long Drop Lodge: Short Stay Only". Back home, we are welcomed by a tired Kimball, who just got off work. Even with long work hours, he had time to record a new song and we get to be his first live audience. So fun!